Mozambique 1

I have just been on a sixteen day bird survey of Southern Mozambique. We were helping out on a project looking at the biodiversity of the Maputoland region that extends from Maputo in Mozambique (the capital city) down to Richards Bay in South Africa. If you imagine Maputoland as a body, then southern Mozambique is its beautiful face, and my study site in Richards Bay is (unfortunately) is its arse. I drove up from Richards Bay to meet the rest of the team at Emanguzi (Kosi Bay), and after collecting some emergency rations (beer and firewood) we drove to the border. The border at Kosi Bay is not your typical African border. The atmosphere is relaxed and there is no-one around trying to make a quick buck out of those attempting to cross. The place is so laid back they even bribe you (not quite – but wouldn’t that be great an African Border post where no bribes take place – yes I know I am dreaming but Kosi Bay is nearly there). The most striking thing about Kosi Bay border post is the stark contrast between the South African side and Mozambique. On the South African side you drive up to the border on a tar road. Get your passport checked in a brick building with air-conditioning, where they type your details on to the computer and scan the barcode attached to your passport. You go through a boom gate and then “BANG!” you hit the third world. The road turns from tar to sand without as much as a “by-your-leave”. The Mozambique border guard sits in a prefab building using a pencil to write down your details. The contrast is so vast that it reminds me of when we lived in Australia and we visited Bicentennial land where upon arrival you would walk through a time tunnel that would take you back 200 years.

Once we cleared the border we drove for another 2 hours along sand roads to get to Maputo special reserve (also known as the Maputo Elephant Reserve). The reserve has got to be the most beautiful landscape on earth. The open grasslands contrast with the patches of sand forest and coastal dune forest which appear like islands in the fog, as if floating above the long grass. The beauty of the place is so difficult to describe, it is simply breathtaking.

We set up camp near the main gate of the reserve for the first week. Every day we were sent out to different forest patches to record all the birds we saw or heard. Our day started at 0430 with coffee, a rusk or two, and very little conversation. We left camp at 0500 in order to get to our site in time for the birds to be getting out of bed. With me there was Pieter who was the observer and I was the recorder, thus giving me a chance to learn some of the birds that I will encounter in my own fieldwork. Our first morning we drove as close to our site as we could, parked the vehicle and set off on foot, as we were walking away we heard the “prrrrup” of the African Broadbill. This near-threatened bird is elusive and many a twitcher dreams of having a tick next to its name. It only calls when it is displaying. The display is apparently unbelievable. This small sparrow sized bird flies in a circle with its wings shivering, and then proceeds to hang upside down off the branch to impress potential mates. I don’t know about you but this would definitely impress me. Unfortunately for Pieter and I we heard the Broadbill behind us as we walked off into the mist toward our forest patch. Little did we know that, that was the last chance we would have to see the broadbill on the trip. To rub salt into that wound everyone else on the trip not only saw the broadbill but got great views of its display flight. Bastards!
Pieter and I carried on into the mist blissfully unaware that our GPS had decided it didn’t want to tell us where we were. It resented us walking 100m so told us we had walked 10m. It then decided that it would try and fool us in to believing that despite the rising sun at our faces we were walking west. Eventually after walking for 4km through long grass we decided to duck in to the nearest forest patch and begin our survey. Our first survey point we saw very little as the forest was so dense. Our second survey point was much the same. On route to our third survey point we disturbed some bush pig. Now when one is walking in the Maputo elephant reserve one is constantly made aware of the presence of elephants; a broken branch here, a steaming pile of dung there, and bush pig have the uncanny ability to sound just like a very angry elephant when alarmed. Bumping into bush pig is not for the weak of heart. By the third survey point my heart was beating so fast that I couldn’t hear any birds. When we had finished our survey we headed back to the vehicle. The walk that morning had not been too bad, with the dense fog we were unable to see how far we had walked. Unfortunately the fog and cleared and we could just see a small white speck reflecting the sunlight in the distance. It was a long walk but we were treated to the sight of blue-cheeked bee-eaters hawking insects around our heads.